Hellene Fam Trip to Athens – February 2024
What’s on the itinerary? Hellene School Travel’s team trip to Athens
by Dr. Kerry Phelan (@KerryLPhelan on X/Twitter)
I was fortunate enough to arrive in Greece a couple of days before the rest of the Hellene School Travel family (as necessitated by the irregular flight schedule from Dublin to Athens, I swear!). But this meant that I had a few days to get to work. Having only joined the Hellene team in September 2023, there’s was still so much to learn in terms of the practical elements of planning a group trip. Meeting our wonderful colleagues at Amoratis Travel, I spent the first couple of days viewing and inspecting the various hotels in Athens that we use for our bookings. I found this very insightful, and really useful overall in terms of understanding location and amenities from a group leader’s perspective.
On my second night in Athens, a dear friend of mine (an archaeologist and resident in Athens) invited me along to the American School of Classical Studies which, together with the Museum of Cycladic Art, was hosting a conference, entitled ‘Chaeronea, August 338 BC: a state of the question’. We attended the brilliant keynote lecture by anthropologist, Professor Maria Liston (University of Waterloo, Ontario), about the skeletons of the fallen Thebans at the Battle of Chaeronea. In the Battle, the Macedonians won a major victory over the combined forces of both Athens and Thebes and, with this, King Philip II of Macedon essentially put an end to both the power and independence of the Greek city-states. Professor Liston spoke about the visible battle injuries on the remains of the Theban warriors; you can still watch it here: https://youtu.be/mQxHXeJLJME (the lecture starts around 12.30 into the video).
Having attended such an interesting lecture, I made time the next day to visit the Museum of Cycladic Art in order to see its temporary exhibit on the Battle of Chaeronea. There, I was thrilled to see the rather beautiful marble head of Alexander the Great there, dating from the 2nd century AD, that is normally on show at the Archaeological Museum in Thassos. I hadn’t seen this depiction in person before, and it’s more captivating in person than any picture can do justice to.
All the pieces on display provided context for the Battle itself, explaining both the military systems and equipment of the era, and they even covered the aftermath. Spanning two floors, the exhibit presented weaponry and armour of the era, inscriptions and sculpture commemorating the rulers and warriors of the time, and also a Playmobil diorama of the battle – though I’m not sure that I can forgive their depiction of Demosthenes!
The brutal reality of warfare was sympathetically demonstrated by the exhibit’s skeletal remains of some of the Thebans who had fallen at the Battle. The bodies of the deceased Thebans, placed in a polyandron (a tomb of many men), were discovered in the late nineteenth century. As per Professor Liston’s analysis from her ASCSA paper, the bones themselves show clear indications of the types of horrific battle injuries that they suffered as part of the conflict.
That afternoon, heavy rainfall and thunder held me prisoner in the Museum’s well-stocked bookshop and café for a couple of hours. But since the rest of the Hellene family were due to arrive that evening, I eventually had to brave water- logged streets and head back to the Hotel to meet them.
Once reunited, and fully assured that the storm had passed, we set off to explore the city together. On the way from the Hotel to Syntagma square, we walked along a busy busy contemporary thoroughfare, and first passed the Arch of Hadrian. Built in the second century AD, this monument was erected to honour the Roman emperor who was famously fond of Greece. It also stands beside the modern bronze statue of Alexander the Great (created by the sculptor, Giannis Pappas in 1992), and very close to the site of the Temple of Olympian Zeus.
Once Athens had begun to expand during the reign of Hadrian, and the Temple of Zeus had been completed and the triumphal Arch was erected, this area was then incorporated into the inner city. A short walk away, we came across the archaeological site of the Roman Baths, which was discovered during construction for a ventilation shaft for the Athenian Metro. These baths were established at the end of the 3rd or early in the 4th century AD; there we saw the very well-preserved balneum, the hypocaust system with fifteen column supports, and some of the underground vaulted passages which connected the caldarium to the furnaces.
As we made our way towards Syntagma Square, we arrived at the the Presidential Palace just in time to watch the ceremonial changing of the guard. The Greek Evzones are a group of elite Greek soldiers who stand guard at the Palace and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The change of guard take place every hour, and entails an elaborate slow-motion procession of the two incoming and two outgoing sentries supervised by a corporal.
Afterwards, being in search of somewhere to eat for dinner, we headed to Plaka, one of the prettiest neighbourhoods in Athens and it’s ‘Old Town’ area, just to the south of the modern city. We enjoyed strolling through the streets, taking in the evening’s atmosphere, and eventually came across the Monument of Lysicrates. This is the only near-fully preserved choregic monument, set up by a wealthy Athenian who sponsored the winning playwright and actors in the drama competition that was part of the City Dionysia festival. The Monument’s patron was one Lysicrates, from the year 335/334 BC though, unfortunately, the names of the plays that he sponsored are not known. All we have is the beautiful temple- like Monument, which was built to support the long-lost bronze tripod that would have been the actual prize.
Having found a lovely spot to eat near the Monument, we eventually called it a night, but after a late-night stop for Greek frozen yogurt on the walk back to the Hotel!
A visit to to Athens really wouldn’t be complete without a trip to a local street market (known as laiki agora, meaning ‘popular’ or ‘people’s market’) held in various neighbourhoods in Athens. We got up early and went to the Kallidromiou Market, which is about a ten-minute walk away from the National Archaeological Museum, and which takes place every Saturday (from 7am to 3pm). What’s on offer? Well, everything! All types of seasonal produce, from all around Greece, are spread along long tables, and shield from the sunshine with bright (usually orange!) umbrellas: fruit, vegetables, herbs, sweets and chocolates, cheeses, meat, fish, bread and cakes, and a few sundries in between. As we wandered down the street, a feast for the eyes from stall to stall, we were tempted by tasty treats like super sweet oranges from Argos, and humongous strawberries and pomegranates from Laconia; from the latter, the freshly- squeezed pomegranate juice was absolutely divine!
After stocking up on snacks at the Market, we made our way to the National Archaeological Museum. I’ve been to the Museum so many times now that I’ve actually lost count. But it’s vast collection and multiple side galleries doesn’t just deserve a second look, but also a third, a thirteenth or even a thirtieth! There’s much more to see than a single visit can take in. Each time, I discover something new and I rediscover something I’d forgotten about, irrespective of whether I was there for study, for work, or for fun.
Amongst the statues, hidden away at the end of one of the Museums labyrinth- like corridors, one of my favourite pieces in its vast collection is the statue of Varvakeion Athena (so named because she was found in the area of the Varvakeio in Athens). She is a Roman-era copy, probably early 3rd century AD, of the long- lost Athena Parthenos that would have stood inside the Parthenon on the Acropolis. I adore the Varvakeion Athena because she is the closest likeness we have to the original, albeit at a much smaller scale, which was created by the ancient sculptor, Pheidias, sometime before 438 BC.
Another highlight stands on the upper floor of the Museum. Having visited Santorini with my family last summer, I was thrilled to see Boxing Boys from Akrotiri in person. This fresco is 3,600 years old and utterly amazing. The vibrancy of the colours, and the detail of their posture. I think it’s mesmerising to look at.
From the Museum, we headed back towards the Plaka area in order to see the Roman Agora. It’s not the most famous Agora in the city, of course, but the pillared square reminds visitors how the Romans wanted to leave their mark on the already ancient city.
In the background, stands the Tower of the Winds (or Horologion of Andronicus of Cyrrhus). Considered as the first meteorological station in the world, it was built in the first half of the 1st century BC. Both its octagonal shape and its purpose ensure that this is a highly unusual example of Greek architecture. Unfortunately, due to our visit being outside of the busy summer season (which runs from April-October), the Tower itself wasn’t open for entry but we did get to peer inside through the railings on the locked doorway.
We strolled towards Monastiraki and made quick stop to visit what is left of the second century AD Library of Hadrian. With another nod to the emperor who, in his youth earned himself the nickname Graeculus (‘little Greek’), the impressive façade of his Library still stands. There, we also bumped into some of the local wildlife, the Greek tortoise (testudo hermanni), and realised that they were just as keen as we were to find a shady spot to rest.
Feeling refreshed after leisurely lunch on Adrianou street, we had one final stop on day’s itinerary. The (Greek!) Agora was the political, social, and commercial centre of the ancient Athens; more than a marketplace, it was a crucial space for religious worship and for informal gatherings, for both legal proceedings and political assembly.
The sprawling site is still overlooked by the superb marble Temple of Hephaestus, the god of craft and industry, which stands as the best- preserved of all Classical Greek temples. Built of Pentelic marble, its construction was probably started not long after 450 BC, around the same time as the Parthenon, and it was likely finished some than thirty years later. It’s fine preservation is owed to its transformation into a Christian church in Late Antiquity.
A picture of the Temple of Hephaestus has been the chosen screensaver on my phone (and laptop too!) ever since my first visit to Athens in 2009. That visit changed my life and my career path and, as such, the Agora as a site is an incredibly special place to me.
The Agora’s Archaeological Museum is housed in the reconstructed Stoa of Attalos, a beautiful building in its own right. It contain many wonderful works of pieces, from weaponry, to judicial apparatus, to domestic items. The latter offers fascinating glimpses of daily life in antiquity, making it possible for us to understand the realities of how people were housed, what they wore, how they worked and played, and how they cooked and ate. That their daily lives had some bizarrely familiar practices and habits never ceases to amaze me. The image below shows a child’s potty from the early sixth century BC!
On our penultimate morning, we headed to the Acropolis Museum to be there shortly after it opened. I love the fact that the ultra-modern Museum building sits under the shadow of the sacred rock; it’s much smaller predecessor used to be on the Acropolis itself! While the official highlight is the magnificent architectural sculptures from the mid-5th century BC Parthenon, a notorious mixture of originals and copies of the frieze and pediments currently in London, there’s plenty more to see along the way to the top floor. For example, the vast collection of Archaic sculpture that was destroyed as a result of the Persian invasion of 480/479 BC and which was subsequently buried. It’s a key source of information on the vibrant painting of ancient monuments.
For me, the best bit is numerous small finds found on the Acropolis. Shortly after passing through through the ticket scanners, visitors are greeted by this remarkable little owl (Athene noctua) which was used as a support for a seat in Pericles’ Odeon.
Another favourite of mine is this marble female head, possibly depicting Aphrodite, from the 5th or 4th century BC. The goddess’ bronze eyelashes have oxidised and caused the discolouration under her eyes. Her gaze and the appearance of tears running down her cheeks are super evocative.
Having wandered around the beautiful artefacts in the Museum for a couple of hours, we were bubbling with excitement to then head up to the Athenian Acropolis. To ascend to the top, we followed the path around by the Theatre of Dionysus on the southern slope, and onwards up past the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. It was a beautiful spring day, warm and sunny, with flowers blooming among the ruins. One of my (many!) pictures of this thrilling site shows the Erechtheion behind the remains of the old Temple of Athena.
The Acropolis is a must-see on most visitors’ itineraries, the great rock-top sanctuary standing proudly in the heart of the ancient city. For Classicists, though, it’s all the more thrilling to know that Pericles instigated the redesign of this time- honoured sacred place, starting the new architectural project in the 460s BC, and that it took over half a century to complete. The buildings include the Parthenon, the Erechtheion with its unique caryatids, the Temple of Athena Nike (victory) and the Propylaea (the monumental entrance to the Acropolis). Even for those who haven’t studied ancient Greece, the beauty created in the fifth century BC is undeniable.
We made the descent via the Propylaea and exited via the western end of the Acropolis, and downhill towards Monastiraki Square. Since this was our last full day in Athens, we had left some time for souvenir shopping. Stretching down a side-street beside the Metro station, Monastiraki Flea Market is crammed full of shops and stalls, selling everything from handmade leather goods to classically inspired jewellery to replicas of ancient Greek vases and clothing. For those who don’t like shopping, it’s a hub of lively restaurants and cafés, and ice cream parlours too (and yes, we indulged!).
On our final morning in Athens, we had a couple of hours to devote to the ancient world before we needed to be at the airport. And in terms of our itinerary, we had saved the best until last. The Kerameikos, to the west of the Agora, is a really stunning ancient site. It comprises of part of the potters’ quarter, a stretch of the Themistoclean city walls (built after the Persian Wars), two city gates, and part of the most important cemetery of the ancient city.
Replicas of some of the famous 5th and 4th century BC grave monuments are visible as you walk around the site, while the original are now safely stored inside the small but very lovely Museum on site. One of my students had asked me to take a picture of the grave relief of Demetria and Pamphile, two sisters, which was found by the South Way in the Kerameikos. The stele dates to around 320s
BC. If I had to pick a favourite Museum in Athens, the Kerameikos Museum would be my choice. In addition to funerary monuments, it’s halls are home to a substantial collection of Greek ceramics from the early and later geometric period, and also lots of pottery from the Classical period. This kylix with a ‘flirtation’ scene is just one beautiful example.
The visit to the Kerameikos brought our Greek odyssey to an end. And the remaining Hellene School Travel team made their way to the airport for our afternoon flights. Though we hadn’t seen every single item that we had listed on our own itinerary – we ran out of time for the modern Kerameikos, Athens’ First Cemetery, to name just one – we had certainly had weary feet and hundreds of photos (James had many more, but I lost count!).
I’ve been to Athens numerous times before, but to visit with my new colleagues was really a rather wonderful experience. And realizing just how long it takes to move four of us grown adults from site to site gave me a whole new appreciation of group leaders …!
It’s time for the Roman-interest perspective! James here, my last visit to Athens was in 2011 when I was a A-Level student on my own Hellene School Travel trip. On that trip we’d spent a day and a half in the city, so I was more than glad to be able to have more time to spend in Athens seeing things I know I’d missed 13 years ago. As Kerry has run through our itinerary above, I won’t go back through it again, but I’ll add some of my highlights in a rough chronological order.
Being able to see the Arch/Gate of Hadrian and the Temple of Olympian Zeus (albeit from the Arch, rather than going up close) was a great start on that first day after arriving and waiting for the torrential rain to stop. On my 2011 trip the only time we saw it was from the coach as we were leaving Athens. It’s now safe to say I’ve seen it from every angle possible as we walked past it about 9 times over the 4 days. The Temple of Olympian Zeus was still under restoration works and mostly covered during our visit, but even from the distance it’s easy enough to appreciate how colossal it was. Athens was lovely to stroll through on that first evening after the rain, seeing the changing of the guard, and the Choragic Monument before having dinner. A quick note, if you order gyros from a restaurant, it isn’t a small wrap. The plate of flatbreads, salad and pile of chicken was a lot more than I was expecting having eaten several starters worth of halloumi, bread and saganaki.
Like Kerry, I was impressed by the wealth of produce on display in the market on our first morning as a group, though we left buying things to Vishal. I still have plenty of dried oregano left from Sarah and John’s visit two years ago. Of course, I’ll never skip an opportunity for an arty photo if I can find one, so here’s a stall of oranges and the orange umbrellas protecting other produce. After our wander through the market, allowing for an appreciation of the local way of life for doing their weekly shop, it was a short walk down to the National Archaeological Museum.
I think I impressed Kerry and Vishal with my efficiency for taking as many photos as possible. I got lucky and we visited the Roman galleries first, so I was straight into my element, moving from one thing on display to the next, take one photo of the item and one of the information (to be read later). I have 724 photos from the museum. More than double the size of the next largest album, the New Acropolis Museum (300). I think it has to be said that my highlight from the museum (with my Romanophile goggles on) was the bronze of Augustus. Of course, I still appreciate lots of the Greek works in the museum – the Artemision Bronze, the “Funerary Mask of Agamemnon” and the Jockey of Artemision were all wonderful to see again. The hand of the Artemision Bronze kept trigging the selfie-timer on my Google Pixel, which made taking his photo difficult. It was also fantastic to see the Antikythera Mechanism and I was impressed with the Egyptian section within the museum too. There seemed to be a Hadrian-based exhibition on, but the room in which it was in had its entrance blocked.
Continuing the Roman focus of the day, we walked from the museum back towards Plaka to see the Roman Agora. This was something that hadn’t been included on the 2011 itinerary, so I was very happy to see the Agora and the Library of Hadrian afterwards. My more specific highlight from these was the Temple of the Winds, though I was too busy taking photos of the various faces on the outside of it to think to take a photo of the inside like Kerry has. I’m also annoyed that I didn’t get a photo of the inscription from the Library of Hadrian. It was lovely weather to stroll through the Greek Agora after lunch, I share my highlight of the Agora with Kerry. The Temple of Hephaestus overlooking the rest of the site is the best part of the Agora, though all the finds at the stoa of Attalos were as impressive as I remembered them being.
Heading to the New Acropolis Museum on day 3 was a great way to start the day, with the museum’s collection being more impressive than I remember, but it does strike you, especially on the top floor, just how much of the Parthenon is missing, whether that’s in the British Museum or the other Universal Museums across Europe. The missing Caryatid sister was also quite stark. There was an exhibition on in the Acropolis Museum, though we didn’t visit it, but it did look very interesting, and I do think it is a shame that we missed it:
https://www.theacropolismuseum.gr/en/noemata-exhibition.
Then we were off to the Acropolis, entering near the Odeon of Herodes Atticus and the Theatre of Dionysos. There was a small queue, and with it being first Sunday of the month entry was free, so once we had picked up our tickets for the allotted time, we found a nearby seat to have lunch on. I forgot just how much to see there was on the slopes of the Acropolis. However, it shouldn’t be surprising that my highlight was the Odeon, mainly due to it having survived much better than all the other sites on the slopes. Continuing our climb, and heading through the Propylaea to reach the pinnacle. In 2011 I know I focused mostly on the Parthenon and the Erechtheion, but this time I made sure to take note of all the other monuments and buildings at the top. As glorious as the Parthenon is, my favourite monument there has to be the Temple of Augus… nope, not even I can make that claim. The Erechtheion might be my preference.
The last morning of the trip, with the visit to Kerameikos, was a great way to end our familiarization trip. While large section of the site could do with more signage, the Street of Tombs was great to see, and the small on-site museum was really well done. All in all, an amazing first group
familiarization trip, and I’m looking forward to leading one to Rome next year.